I am a great lover of my own made almost everything firearm cosmetics.
ATF is a incredible cleaner.
The German break part lubricant is unbeatable.
Carb cleaner just cleans shit.
Car engine oil is an incredible lubricant.
Not many things have had the billions R&D poured into as lubricants for cars. 

Mineral turps - AtF - Can of castrol GTX  or fully synthetic, some lithium grease, all leftovers everyone has,  you can never buy GUN label stuff again.
Between the Horse riding shop and a carpentry supply store you have all you need in bulk form for your stock and straps and some metal care as well.
Before you go hunt next time, try using a good car polish on your metal parts - again, millions put into research.
Take a metal road in the meantime, sand it clean and car polish one side properly , leave it outside for a while, pick it up and handle a few times . see how well the polish protects.

As much as I like a good DIY mix, take a dive into Google and read up a bit about "contact dermatitis"

I am a great lover of my own made almost everything firearm cosmetics.
ATF is a incredible cleaner.
The German break part lubricant is unbeatable.
Carb cleaner just cleans shit.
Car engine oil is an incredible lubricant.
Not many things have had the billions R&D poured into as lubricants for cars. 

I been using ATF in place of gun oil for a couple decades now. I tried it because I got a look inside an old gearbox once. All the metal surfaces were spotless.

After I tried it, I was impressed by the fact that after application, wiping it dry leaves a film that protects gun metal in a safe for a relatively long time.

Carb cleaner is useful for cleaning crud off metal parts, but I don't use it because of the gas it emits. And I use ultrasonic to clean suppressors and brakes. In a  diesel bath. I should try it with ATF now that diesel costs as much.

ATF - Engine oil - Mineral Turps. With a varying % mix you can do almost anything you buy, ATF and W40  oil 50/50 for not sure parts.  ATF 30/70% W40 oil for bolts. Mix your own 3 in one penetrating for pivot pins and metal to metal move parts like the safety rod using mineral turps and W40 motor oil, thin it down to what u want using the turps.

I have played with oil and paraffin, diesel and molyslip.

I once mixed up something using break fluid as the base for cleaning and it worked sooooooo well, but I must have remembered something wrong, because everytime I mixed it afterwards the parts separated. Try as I will I have not been able to make it again,
I also made a brilliant stock wax using oils and beeswax, I kept one of the lead up too recipes and threw away the winner mix it appears. I have enough for my life time though. It was beeswax mainly, artist turps(from trees), teak oil and lanolin. The way it was mixed is what was hard to get right, I remember finding all ingredients were at same temperature to work/mix correct. It was also important, but I can not recall which it was, but mixing while cooling or mixing and not mixing further while cooling made a difference.
If I ever make a wx again I will blender it while it cools, I think the aeration will make for better product.
LASTLY _ I will remember that I will not remember and write everything down.

I never quite understood why shooters have this aversion to using bronze brushes.

It works much faster and better than nylon or patches.

As a matter of interest do you use the brush in one direction only from chamber to crown and unscrew?

No. I push through all the way then pull back all the way. Repeat that for every 3 rounds fired. For all the years I've done that, I have not once seen any damage on the crown. And yes, I have a bore scope and use it regularly to check the barrel and crown.